Bygone Decades in the Gulf

Decades of overseas work enrich life of "Gulf 'Malayali Mamman"

Pravasi family -- Balakrishnan with wife Padma, son Vipin and daughter in law Smitha Menon

"Everybody knew everybody else in Muscat. Most of the families were staying without their close relatives, people needed each other'... There was no strict division between the elite and common man. Even now there are a few Keralite families who maintain their old bonds of friendship and solidarity. 'The new generation elite class of Keralites has been moving away from the common man, forgetting the old pattern of cordial social relationship. Read More about Gulf life three decades back.

Balakrishnan Vettakkat, a senior Indian citizen who has spent nearly half of his life outside India, working in different countries under diverse circumstances, is going to start a retired life in Kerala. Retaining the good qualities of a socially concerned humanist, a philanthropist and a family man who prefers to socialise and maintain cordial relationship with fellow members of the Indian community in the Gulf and nurture patriotic feelings about Mother India, at 70 years, Balakrishnan, better known as 'Balettan' among the Keralite community in Muscat is getting ready to spend rest of his life in a small house that he had bought with the hard currency earned in the Gulf. Sunil Kumar Muttar spoke to Balettan and wife Padma about their life and rich experience outside Kerala for three decades.

Balakrishnan Vattakkadu and wife Padma..three decades of Pravasi life

After passing the tenth class in August 1955, Balakrishnan from Vadavannore, Palaghat joined Nambeeshan Diary Farm in Palaghat. Later he went to Malaysia and worked for 12 years in a rubber estate. Before the Gulf boom of the 1970s, Keralites used to seek job in South East Asia, especially Singapore and Malaysia. The rubber boom attracted many Indians to the plantation sector in Malaysia.

Plantation life in Malaysia

'I was working as a field conductor of Lavu Third Mile Rubber Estate in Saremban, Malaysia. There were 60 Tamilian and Telungu workers under me. Later I worked for Sungai Wargil Estate in Sityawa' he recollects. Foreign workers with residential permit could easily change their job without restrictions. There were many temples -Hindu and Chinese -"Malaysia was more liberal than some of the Gulf countries. Mariamman temple in Malaysia is very popular,' says Balettan. He got married on 25 December 1965 with Padma, a teacher of Achuthan Girls High School, Chalappuram, Calicut who has been with him in Malaysia and in Muscat. Their first son, Vinesh, who was born in Malaysia is now married and working as a senior manager of Dr. Reddys Laboratories, Hydrabad.

In Malaysia, Balakrishnan was associated with the 'Keralamajam' in which he represented one region. There were about 300 members in Keralasamajam, Perank and main celebration was Onam. He could developed contacts with M.K.Menon, (novelist Vilasini), who was working as the AFP Correspondent from Singapore, poet Kunjuraman and Malaysia Ramakrishna Pillai. Due to circumstancial reasons, he returned to Kerala and worked as accountant in a few estates in Mysore, Palaghat and a private company in Vishakha Patnam.

Muscat life

Through his brother in law who was working in Bahrain, he managed to get a visa from the multinational firm Grey Mackensie, which owned a trading company in Muscat. "I went to Muscat on an Eid day (October 18th, 1974) and worked for 16 years with the Oman United Agencies (OUA). On reaching the retirement age at 55, I left OUA and joined Mezoon Travels. I am proud of working 11 years for Mezoon in my post-retirement life," Balettan said, adding that in India also, he will try to find a work because it is difficult to sit idle at home! Even at 70, he seems to be young' and energetic to work for one more decade.

Recollecting the initial days in Muscat, he says the country was gradually progressing. There were not many roads, flyovers, residential buildings or even public telephones. "To reach Muscat from Ruwi, we had to take two taxis - from Ruwi to Mattrah and from there to Muscat. "I started working with a basic salary of RO 80 plus RO 50 accommodation allowance and RO 15 travel allowance. Even though cost of living was very cheap, rent was very high --RO 50 for a small room, without modern facilities. Houses were partitioned made of plywood and two Keralite families used to share one house,'' says Balettan, who has witnessed the country and the Indian community making rapid progress in life in the last three decades. 'At 9 p.m. when people who return from job were about to switch on the air conditioner, power supply will go and we used to live without A/C. To avoid heat, we slept with the doors open. There was no fear of theft or crime," Balettan said.

Old family photo

Unlike now, there was no piped water supply and tanker was the source of drinking water. 'We used to get tanker water at RO 20 per month, which was shared by two families,' added Padma. Thanks to the modernization of the country under His Majesty Sultan Qaboos, things have improved substantially from the 1980s. "A tea was available for 30 baizes and non-vegetarian food was available at 400 baiza. All vegetables used to cost 800 baiza per kg. Unlike India inflation was strictly under control - a tea is available at 50 baiza now.

As his mother was bed ridden, Balettan used to send money for her treatment. Like many other Pravasis, he took care of his brother and financed the sister's marriage Living with a family of two children and wife, Balettan could not save much from his limited income. He did not indulge in any dubious means to make money. Even though he used to visit Kerala almost every second year, he never bothered to smuggle a few gold biscuits to make more money. For salaried people living with family, saving from the fixed income was very difficult. 'I could give good education to my two children who are well settled now. The youngest son, Vipin, who studied in Indian School Darsait is working as an IT systems Manager of a leading company," he added. "Even though my wife was a teacher in Kerala, she could not find work because the Indian schools followed double shift system and two children attended school in two shifts.'

Investment and Home

"Now I am financially sound and there is enough saving to sustain life after reaching Kerala. I have bought an ordinary house of Rs. 2.5 lakhs five years ago. While most of the Gulf Malayalis spend their lifetime savings in building very big houses to exhibit their wealth and prosperity, Balettan's rationale for preferring a small house sounds interesting. "Traditionally our house was a 'Tharavadu' with 'Nalukettu' with lot of rooms. My father was only a 'Karyasthan' and we found it difficult to maintain such a big house. It may be due to this bitter experience that I preferred a small house."

A family photo: Vinesh and Vipin, former Indian School students are settled in life.

At a time when many of the Gulf returnees who have built big houses even by borrowing heavily from banks find it difficult to maintain, pay taxes or repay the housing loans, a reasonable advise from an experienced Pravasi needs to be kept in mind by other Gulf Malayalis. "My children are settled abroad and there is no need for a big house in a remote village in Kerala. If it is in a big town, you can get good rent and survive,' he says. "While I was traveling in an auto, I saw a big notice in front of a big house in Kerala, which said, `This house is fitted with Centralised A/C'. But only an old couple stayed there.' Real estate is not a bad investment, but putting all the hard earned money in buildings which generate zero revenue is foolish.

Gulf Malayali Mammen

Balakrishnan Vettakkat
Age - 70 years
Native place: Palaghat
Wife: Padma
Son : Vinesh,Vipin
Foreign Countries lived:
Malaysia, Oman.
Talents: Actor, Socialite, humourist
Preferred Airline
Preferred Bank
Preferred Newspaper
Social Organizaion;
 
 
Member, KCC, ISC Malayalam Wing
 
KCC Management Committee.
 
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